RCA TS - mica cap disease. Posted: Oct Thu 11, am. Usually I advise people that mica caps in the sweep sections are suspect, but usually not a problem in the IF or RF stages. Here's an exception. The one that failed is C pF in the schematic below: Close inspection, however, reveals that this mica cap is used a bit differently than many micas in the RF and IF stages. Usually mica caps are in simple tuned parallel LC resonant circuits, where they don't have any DC bias across them.
Here these are in parallel LC circuits nost so easy to recognizebut with an unusual configuration, where they also serve as coupling caps from stage to stage, so they have volts or more of DC across them continuously.
The symptom in this case was jumpy sync and if you looked carefully, jumpy changes in contrast and brightness, but this was more subtle. I started out by replacing mica caps in the horizontal sweep, but with no improvement this is of course after fully replacing all electrolytic and tubular caps.
Rca Victor Radio
Hanging my scope probe on various points in the IF stages, I came to suspect that the jumpy sync was actually originating in the video IF. First I suspected the ceramic tubular bypass capacitors like C and C, since I could see jumpy DC voltage across them.
Replacing the one which seemed to be in the stage causing the problem, however, didn't change anything. The jumpy voltage on the screen was simply responding to jumpy amplitude on the video IF signal at the grid.
Rca Victor Radio
Finally after zeroing in on which stage it had to be by observing which stage had the highest frequency and largest amplitude jumpsI tried replacing the mica coupling capacitor and all was fixed. Since one had failed, I ended up replacing three or four such coupling caps in the video IF to head off future failures. I'd probably still advise people that failures of mica caps in IF simple parallel LC tuned circuits are rare, but keep an eye out for mica coupling caps like these.
That reminds me, the oldtimer who aligned my TS years ago told me to replace exactly the same caps -- mica coupling caps in the video IF section. Posted: Oct Thu 11, pm.
I was just watching my recently restored TS last nite The Enemy Below,and on occasion, I get a tic on the picture. Comes and goes. I didn't replace any micas in the set, but I noticed a couple had been before, probably in the 60's or 70's when it was last worked on.
Because it was running fine on the bench before I loaded it into the cabinet, I'm wondering whether I should bench it again and go thru the hor sweep sections, and that IF section you are identifying. Outside of the occasional tic, it really runs fine.
Thanks, Dennis and Phil, for passing along your accumulated knowledge and experience. As we mention these things here from time to time, it should make it easier for everyone in the future to benefit from what's been seen in the past.
One very curious thing about this set is that it had a bad pin on the 6AT6 1st audio tube socket.Posted: Oct Wed 10, pm. Don't plug it in any more. You might ruin parts that would be expensive and hard to find. Every electronic device that old needs routine service especially, capacitor replacement before it will be safe and reliable to use.
Antique radio: RCA Victor model 75X11. Manufactured 1947. Still works good.
The old parts deteriorate with age whether or not the set was used. If you do want to try fixing it yourself, I recommend that you get a simple tube radio and try fixing that first. Pictures Show The Empty Spot. Posted: Oct Thu 11, am. I'm going to guess it's a Filter Capacitor that's missing, the "O" is just a circle used to illustrate it.
Is the hole square with four slots around it, or a Phenolic washer with the same square hole riveted to the chassis? A missing Filter would also cause the hum, though as Phil said all of the capacitors need to be replaced before this set is safe to watch, It's a very complex chassis and definitely not a set for someone with no experience to attempt.
Posted: Oct Thu 11, pm. I wasn't going to say anything, but, I have that set in a blonde mahoganny case. I'm in no hurry I re built the radio, and, amplifier. I had major problems. Radio band switch had gone bad, needed major repairs, the amp had open power resistors, the speaker had an open field coil.
It dost me a fortune to finally find a ggod original replacement spkr. Got radio playing. Haven't touched phono, yet. Replaced on bad control on tv without even doing anything else. Resistors in box are bad, and, chassis had spat out a ton of tar.
I think filter choke is also shorted. This set had a disator.Used trek bikes for sale
I seem to gravitate to that kind of set I've been working on sets since a teenager, and, I'm hereto say one thing Bill Cahill. Posted: Oct Sat 13, pm. Posted: Oct Sun 14, pm. Check Them Out There. Here are some of the pics I pulled from ebay.Wax nostalgic about and learn from the history of early electronics. See articles from Radio-Craft, published - All copyrights are hereby acknowledged. Whenever I post any of these Radio Data Sheets from vintage electronics magazines, I attempt to find photos of actual units.Visulas 690s
Drawings are good, but actually seeing a for-real example is the best option. The alternative was purchasing service documentation from the manufacturer often only available to factory-authorized shopsfrom Sam's Photofactsor some other third-party supplier. Frye's series of " Mac's Radio Service Shop " illustrates, quirky variations in circuits can really throw a curve to the serviceman.
Loop must be connected during alignment. Check the set screws that hold the tuning drum to the shaft to see that they are tight and that the drum has not slipped on the shaft. The correct position of the drum can be seen on the manufacturer's stringing diagram. If there is any serious deviation or if there has been any tampering, turn the adjusting screws until this distance is correct.
Be sure both the set and the signal generator are thoroughly warmed up before starting alignment. If it becomes necessary to change a tuning slug proceed in the following manner: Set the gang to its wide open position, unsolder arid remove the old slug.
Set the slug adjusting screw about half way down. Solder it in this position, making sure that it does not slip during the 'operation and that the slug wire is straight.
Proceed to realign the set as shown in the chart. These schematics, tuning instructions, and other data are reproduced from my collection of vintage radio and electronics magazines. As back in the era, similar schematic and service info was available for purchase from sources such as SAMS Photofactsbut these printings were a no-cost bonus for readers.
Its primary purpose was to provide me with ready access to commonly needed formulas and reference material while performing my work as an RF system and circuit design engineer.
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This website is dedicated to phonographs made by The Victor Talking Machine Company from through It contains detailed information about the various models that were produced by Victor, along with rarity, design features, technical information, valuation, etc.
This site is for beginners and seasoned collectors alike. If you are just getting started and want to learn a little about these machines, or are looking for some basic information about your Victor or Victrola, please click on the "Getting Started" link below and read though the brief material. It will assist you in navigating around this website. Once familiar with the layout, feel free to have a look around at all the aspects of these early phonographs.
This site covers only Victor-brand phonographs. There were many other makes of phonographs produced in the early years of this century, including Edison, Sonora, Columbia, and hundreds of others.
This website is intended to provide comprehensive information for collectors and hobbyists. Additionally, we augment this database with information that individuals send to us via this website. This is data is used to help determine when models changed, survival rates, design details, etc. If you own a Victor or Victrola, and would like to help this site by contributing to the "knowledge database", please click here.
Please take a minute and click the "Getting Started" button below before exploring this site! How to find what you are looking for. A few basics on old phonographs. Interested in an Appraisal or Need Parts? Click below for information. Just want some free information on your Victor or Victrola Phonograph? Click the box to the left of the topic. Basics of the Acoustic Phonograph. How does it work? Background on the Victor Talking Machine Company. Victor Models.
Serial numbers. When was it made? How rare is it? Original Selling Prices. Current Value. Types of Wood Veneers and Finishes. Functional Features. Hardware Variations. Acoustic Performance. Technical Discussions. Horn Design. Audio Comparisons.Posted: Sep Sun 20, pm. I'm new to this forum and I'm looking for some advice. I just brought home my grandfather's RCA Victor console radio phonograph.
It's a model V3 that he bought new in I powered it up slowly using my Variac and things seem to be working for the most part. I'm having trouble with the phonograph portion.Gumtree pro
The turntable is quite difficult to rotate. There is only one "sweet spot" where it moves freely, but only about 1 or 2 degrees of rotation. The motor runs, but it'll only rotate the turntable when it's setting in that sweet spot.
Also, there is no sound output from the phonograph when I gently touch the needle. My intention is to clean the unit, get it up and running properly and place it in my family room. It's still chock full of records that my grandparents bought in the late 40's. If anyone can advise me on what to do, I'd be grateful. Thanks in advance, Doug. Most likely your turntable has several problems.
First, it is probably locked up due to hardened grease in the mechanism.
This may seem improbable but the changer mechanism gets its energy from the spinning platter and depending where it is in its cycle, the motor may have almost no mechanical advantage- and so can easily get stalled out by ancient grease.
Second, this set most likely has a rubber friction wheel which transmits the motor rotation to the inside of the platter. Like grease, rubber gets old and hard with age, and loses traction.
Almost certainly this wheel will need to be replaced or skived down before the turntable will operate, even after the "hard grease issue" has been resolved.
Finally, phonos of this era used Rochelle salt crystals as the transducer in the pickup. This salt is hygroscopic and after several years exposed to normal air humidity, it breaks down and the pickup ceases to operate.
You will either need to have the existing pickup rebuilt a few people on this site offer this service or a modern high-output pickup adapted to fit in your headshell. You may get a more non-generic answer if you can post a photo of the changer unit, or better yet, a make and model number of it. Some changers have characteristic quirks and weaknesses that are well known to many members of this forum. Doug, Welcome to the forum! It's the web site of Phils Old Radios. You'll find a lot of good information in the Beginners section.
You'll need to replace all the electrolytic and paper capacitors as well as all out-of-tolerance resisters. Your turntable needs to be disassembled, cleaned and lubed. You'll need a rebuilt idler wheel as well. You will find that at Voiceofmusic.A pprox.
Size: During ad campaigns most ads were produced one time only and never reproduced commercially again making them great pieces of history that reflect the products and services of the day. This is an original ad from a vintage magazine. It is not a reproduction or reprint. As old print periodicals become more scarce so do the wonderful ads that gave color and life to those remembered times. These ads look terrific in frames and as part of a collection help us recall and document past times.
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